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These services are run for photographers by a photographer, there is no "can't" in the film processing services offered, if you can't find what you need, then use the contact tab and I can work out a customised solution or a recommended course of action.

Please see Articles & Tutorials section for recommendations and information on choosing a film, among other things.

Dye Stability

From about 2000 onwards, C-41 films started to include dye stabiliser built into the emulsion, films 2000 prior don't have this, and require it as one of the chemical bathes or the dyes will fade rather quickly. The C-41 process had this in the final bath, the current process removed it as it was no longer needed, I process all films with a proper stabiliser (it's compatible with current films too of course) so that if you send me old films the dyes will be properly stabilised as opposed to other labs.

Current E-6 films do not have stabiliser built into them, so if you cross-process them to a negative, the dyes will fade quickly unless a stabiliser bath has been used. Since I use a stabiliser bath for all colour films you won't have this problem cross-processing with my services.

Push / Pull Processing Limitations

I can pull and push as hard as you want. Below are some simple thoughts on the matter if you are unfamiliar with this territory.

If you have grossly overexposed your C-41 by several stops, I can pull process it to prevent it from becoming too dense and difficult to scan and print. I have successfully run a developing time as short as 2 minutes (at 39 degrees celsius) without any trouble I can see, I haven't tried shorter than this, but I will process whatever you ask for.

Good films to consider pulling are severely old high speed colour negative films, you may overexpose them several stops, to get the exposure away from base fog, and pull to minimise base fog development, see below for a 14 year old Vision1 500T example.

I can push your C-41 as hard as you wan't if you happen to underexpose or forget to account for reciprocity failure (please advise on all details if you do), but a 6 stop push for example isn't going to come out too well. I advise paying attention to exposure as a preventitive measure though. If you've underexposed most of your film, it is better to push than to simply rely on your latitude.

The New Portra 400 is an excellent film to consider pushing, other films to consider pushing if you need speed are Superia X-TRA 800, Superia 1600, Pro 800Z, Portra 800, Vision3 500T, Reala 500D (the motion picture film stock, not Reala 100), etc.

I am still exploring the limits of E-6, but if you know what you want, I can oblige happily.

New Portra 400 pushed to 1600

Even the darkest detail under the concrete at the vents/grill/grate can be lifted and seen.

New Portra 400 pushed to 25600, yes thats right! (7 minutes 30 seconds) - Very Thin and poor though! This is definately not something you wat to do. What you're looking at is a lot of scanner noise, as the denisty range was thin.

14 year old Kodak Vision1 500T, shot at EI32, and pulled (2 minutes 15 seconds)

14 year old Kodak Vision1 500T, shot at EI800, and pushed (4 minutes 45 seconds)